I know that a lot of designers start out with the yarn or the materials that they are going to use and just sort of do a free flowing kind of design. I do this occasionally mostly for accessories or socks using a standard construction. But this free form kind of process just doesn't work for me for larger pieces. I think this is a carry-over from sewing for me because I've always been very much about planning things out and hammering out at least most of the details before I even get started with my materials.
Sketching for me is also a very useful tool to find out what does work but also, more importantly, what doesn't work. I always feel like I'm channeling Tim Gunn from Project Runway when I sketch. I have to ask if I'm "running the risk of overdesigning". I love to work with sleek lines and tailored looks but with this kind of aesthetic it's so easy to get way too simple so that no one would want to knit my design because it is just too boring. (Ironically, I think that this would make a piece a wardrobe staple because it could go with anything but I just am not willing to poke my eyes out with pointy sticks halfway through a tightly knit black stockinette sweater in laceweight!) On the flip side, I have a tendency to overcompensate for this by adding in so many interesting details that the sweater looks more like a Cirque du Soleil act than something wearable. Sketching everything out before starting allows me to edit so that I can avoid both extremes.
I would encourage everyone to sketch their designs. It really is helpful for the planning stages and if you intend to submit something for publication you need to submit a sketch along with your descriptions. You don't need to be a great artist. It just really helps to get your ideas out on paper.
I'm going to take you through one of my sketching sessions. I like the end result, but we'll see if it makes it to the top of the design pile.
A lot of people like to use a fashion croquis for this. Which is a great option if you're not a confident sketcher or if you're just starting out. I prefer to draw my own body shape. This is mostly because when I'm sketching I'm often just out with my notebook on a bench somewhere and I really don't want to be putting too many extra things in my bag.
You can find a lot of free fashion croquis here.
Include the shape but don't forget to add all of the details that you are considering - collar shape and embellishments as well as cuffs. Remember to draw darts or pleats if you are using them. If you are considering putting accents of a different colour, highlight this. Do not worry if your sketch isn't something that you want everyone and their brother to see. It is a reference tool for you.
I've drawn a fitted blazer with puffed sleeves and pockets as well as darting for the bust and cuffs.
Step 3: Edit, Edit, Edit
My original design had shoulder tabs, and pleats that were different colours and the collar was going to be patterned. There was waaaay too much going on. The great thing about a sketch is that if you do it in pencil, nothing is permanent.
The back of a sweater is just as important, if not more so, than the front. Don't neglect the side view if your sleeves have design details like mine do. I do always think about the side view of a sweater but honestly I only draw it out if it involves details like this one does.
Step 5: Consider Your Sketch's Feasibility
Ask yourself the following questions:
Do I like the piece and would I wear it?
If I wouldn't wear it, who is the audience?
Am I capable of making all these design elements?
How does it rank when compared to your other designs?
Stop here if you are designing for yourself.
If you are designing for a client, a pattern line or a magazine consider the following:
Does it fit in the overall aesthetic of my designs?
Does it fit in this line, or magazine?
Is it "sellable?"
Is it easily scaled up/down for a wide range of sizes?
Can I make it within the allotted time frame without going crazy or allowing quality to suffer?
I love this piece and I think that it would be a great part of a tailored line. At the same time I know that there are a lot of design elements and a lot of fitting so it would be a challenge to size for many different people. But because it doesn't have a specific stitch (and therefore stitch count) associated with it, I think it's fairly feasible. I don't think I would be able to make this piece with too short of a turn around time so I think that it would be most suitable in one of my own lines.
Step 6: Swatch or Put it Aside.
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